The cliché is true, we discovered: people are happier in California.
Our first day in San Francisco, the girls woke before dawn, all of us snuggled in a strange bed. The plane journey had been a mind-numbing blur of uncomfortable tedium, but it disappeared into the past like a stone dropped in a dark pool.
We’d made it. From our bathroom window, we could see the orange-red towers of the Golden Gate Bridge rising out of the fog. My sister arrived to drive us into the Mission, the sunniest neighborhood in the city. Huge fan palms lined the boulevards and sweet-smelling blossoms dropped from trees I didn’t recognize. We passed creamy calla lilies the size of C’s face. Everything seemed super-sized: the flaming bridge, the blue sweep of the Pacific, the giant banana slugs that appeared after the rain.
People were smiling on the sidewalks, smiling in cafes and smiling in Mission Dolores Park, sunning themselves on a grassy hillside with views of the bay. A and C zoomed down a three-story slide on the art-deco playground, then played the outdoor xylophone, low chimes echoing beneath a melody of shrieks. We spun, swung, rock-climbed and finally claimed a spot on the green slope among throngs of Sunday picnickers.
Some large, tattooed women were trying on sparkly wigs, sitting in a circle in the shade. A slender man in a gold G-string sat like a god in their midst, everyone talking and laughing. It was a wig party in the park. I watched happily, thinking, “Toto, we’re not in Vermont anymore.” The girls frolicked and made friends with some well-groomed city dogs, and we talked about ice cream, which we planned to get eventually.
“Is that a boy or a girl?” I mouthed to my sister, eyeing the cute skateboarder who’d sauntered up behind us— rolled jeans, white thrasher tee, well-defined biceps, Converse sneakers.
“Girl,” she whispered.
I couldn’t stop staring— at the skater girl, and the brunette in the fedora and the fire-engine red lipstick, sporting a black bikini over tight white jeans. A phrase was tattooed in an arc above her navel, black script across tanned skin. I squinted. What did it say? “BORN TO…?” Born to what? Born to dance, born to run, born to be a beautiful gypsy in San Francisco and mesmerize pale Vermont tourists still hazy from jet lag?
Sweet herbal smells wafted on the breeze. The sun was hot but the air felt cool. I imagined joining one of eccentric picnic parties ramping up around us, and this might have happened when I was 21. But this time I had two overtired girls in my charge, and we ditched the park for the Bi-Rite Creamery. After waiting on line 25 minutes, we savored cones of rhubarb–vanilla and ginger-caramel ice cream, letting the sugar high carry us back to the Presidio.
When you’re on vacation with your kids, you enjoy them in a way that doesn’t happen at home, where you’re endlessly distracted by work and domesticity, a thousand auxiliary tasks. My girls were excellent travelers, showing reserves of unexpected stamina. We explored the Japanese Tea Garden at the Golden Gate Park, traversing arched footbridges, admiring the red pagoda and the giant bronze Buddha. Fatigue threatened, but C wanted to push on to the aquarium at the California Academy of Sciences and see the sharks. [Read more →]
Tags: California · Golden Gate Park · Japanese Tea Garden · Mission Dolores Park · San Francisco · travel · travel with kids